Gundlach Bundschu - 99

By all accounts, Gundlach Bundschu, or "Gun Bun," as it is affectionately known, should have been my very first blog entry. For I can credit Gundlach Bundschu wines for opening my eyes to the world of wine which ultimately caused me to move from Southern California to the wine country. Back around the time of my 30th birthday, at Bristol Farms (an upscale grocery store) in Manhattan Beach, there was a Zinfandel and Game dinner. It is funny to me that almost a dozen years later, I remember the menu; Wild Boar with Black Voodoo Sauce, Lamb Sausages with Spinach, Raisins and an Onion Confit, and Roast Quail with Spiced Raspberry Compote. And it was there I discovered GunBun's Zinfandel. Of course this was an age of Merlot and, being so impressed with their Zin, I promptly walked in the store and bought the current release of Merlot. The next three-day weekend we had, Shawn and I drove up to the winery, joined the wine club and bought a t-shirt. I'm glad I still have the t-shirt as that label design was retired several years ago...

Upon our arrival in wine country, jobs were a bit difficult to come by and after several months of unemployment, I had to call and cancel our membership in the wine club due to poverty. "Heck, you know the wines! Why don't you come and pour in the tasting room?" I was asked. I hardly needed prodding. I still moonlight in the tasting room on occasional weekends, wanting to keep my fingers in the GunBun pie. And now it is that much more enjoyable due to a newly redecorated tasting room.

Historically, Gundlach Bundschu is the oldest family-owned winery in North America. Jacob Gundlach arrived in America from Bavaria after a year-long boat journey around Cape Horn (there was a ship-wreck en route and he almost stayed in Africa!).  Jacob hired Charles Bundschu as his accountant and with Charles marrying Jacob's sixteen-year-old daughter, Francisca, the Gundlach Bundschu name was born. It was the Bundschu line that continued and there are still four generations of Bundschus living on the property. With a little over 350 farmed acres and five different micro-climates, the winery excels in growing over a dozen varietals. The estate, known as "Rhinefarm," makes up the bulk of winery's production, however there is a modicum of grapes that are purchased. This year, for example, there are three Zinfandels; a Rhinefarm (estate grown), a Sonoma Valley, and a Morse Zin (Bob Morse being a local history professor who just happens to live on ten acres of zinfandel property).

The business was started with a German varietal, Riesling, and while it saddens me that those vines were recently pulled out due to disease, the family has maintained their German roots with the continual production of a very lovely Gewürtztraminer, made in the Alsatian style with low residual sugar.

2004 Gewürtztraminer, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Bright, effusive grapefruit and citrus aromas. Clean citrus entry with a hint of spice on the finish. $22.00

2003 Tempranillo Rosé, Rhinefarm Vineyard - A pale red with pink tints on the edges, luscious red fruit with hints of strawberry balanced with cherry tones. Easy and best served well-chilled. $18.00

2003 Pinot Noir, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Dusty, dried floral aromas subside to show wild strawberry and earthy, musky qualities. Deep, complex layers show dark red fruit and dried heather. $32.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Russian River - Cranberry and dark spice start but are soon coupled with dark strawberry and vanilla. A clear, pronounced entry shows hints of earth and oak with a structured, herbal finish. $28.00

2002 Tempranillo, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Tobacco and spice and brambleberry play together in this balanced, even wine. Some coffee in the mid-palate and dark, mineral qualities on the finish. $28.00

2002 Mountain Cuvée, Rhinefarm Vinyeard - An interesting blend of 75% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% each Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Dark cherry in the nose gives way to hints of dark herbs. Still young, an easy-drinking wine that will mellow to accompany any food. $20.00

2002 Merlot, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Dried herbs and dried cherry predominate the nose. Still a bit young, dark cherry with hints of dark chocolate and coffee promise a smooth, easy drinker in a year or two. $32.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rhinefarm Vineyard - Cassis and black boysenberry aromas anticipate the dark fruit entry. A hint of dusty cocoa shows in the mid-palate and the easy finish predicts another dozen years of lovely drinking. $32.00

2003 Zinfandel, Morse - Chocolate-covered blackberry easily makes this a wine to accompany dark, bittersweet chocolate with dessert. Mineral and herbal tannins in the mid-palate shows a supple, smooth quality. $24.00

2002 Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley - Black licorice and minerals just barely hide dark, black cherry. Heightened acids are a tad astringent but I wouldn't hesitate to try this again in two or three years (only because I know how well these age). $18.00

2003 Zinfandel, Rhinefarm Vineyard - A massive, jammy fruit bomb knocks your socks off with lots of dark bramble fruit, spice, and a mocha finish. My favorite of the three. $32.00

Gundlach Bundschu ~ 2000 Denmark Street ~ Sonoma ~ CA ~ 707-938-5277

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